Skip to main content

Falkirk to Linlithgow

“Only by going alone in silence, without baggage, can one truly get into the heart of the wilderness. All other travel is mere dust and hotels and baggage and chatter.”
Up too early for breakfast, we walked out through the beer garden. Why we wanted MORE walking, I cannot say. Anyway, I was amused by the redundant tag. 

A mile away, we reconnected with JMW (I think I got through the whole day without calling it Cotswold) at Callendar House. We walked uphill through Callendar Woods, which seemed to include Sequoia trees, to the Union Canal towpath. 

It was six miles of flat paved walking, lovely but not worth another picture. These next three give the sense, but this was an exciting spot
Because this is an aqueduct. We’re walking over the Avon River. 
Shortly after this, we turned aside and followed the Avon down to Linlithgow. 
The area is important to Scottish and English history. 
A bridge, a stream, woods, fields, people killed, people died, people ran away, yada yada. 
A rail bridge over the Avon wetlands reminded us of Harry Potter, but this one wasn’t in the movie. We walked on into the heart of the city. 
We’re staying at the West Port Hotel. At check in we learned that tomorrow is a huge holiday here, The Marches. The pubs have special licenses to open at 7 AM.  A pipe & drum band is scheduled to come by here about then. And the thing goes all day.  

It has to do with this being the home of Mary Queen of Scots. 



St Michael’s church is still active, but the churchyard was locked, so I could get no closer to the graves. Since we could only view them from the west, we only saw the backs. 



This cool green man is an anachronistically dressed statue of a guy who was respected around here, but fumbled his job in Australia. 

St Michael’s message seems to us like the motto of all Scotland. Everyone is really nice. We’ve asked bartenders questions they couldn’t answer & they shouted to patrons or got someone else. 
The answer we got wasn’t always right (Neck Oil IPA is brewed in London, not Edinburgh), but still.  
We had cask ale at the West Port Hotel, more beer at the Old Post Office (pictured). 

More beer and supper at the Four Marys, named for Mary’s ladies in waiting.  Next to the West Port we had a night cap whisky at the Willow Tree, recently renamed in a controversial move. We drank a blended whisky contract created with the old name. It’s from a story about a loyal dog who brought food to her chained-up master and was sentenced to share his fate. 

She has a statue nearby. 
  
Here’s another Robert Burns poem to conclude:


Here’s a health to them that’s awa,
Here’s a health to them that’s awa;
And wha winna wish gude luck to our cause,
May never gude luck be their fa’!
It’s gude to be merry and wise,
It’s gude to be honest and true;
It’s gude to support Caledonia’s cause,
And bide by the buff and the blue.

Here’s a health to them that’s awa,
Here’s a health to them that’s awa,
Here’s a health to Charlie, the chief o’ the clan,
Altho’ that his band be sma’!
May Liberty meet wi’ success!
May Prudence protect her frae evil!
May tyrants and tyranny tine i’ the mist,
And wander their way to the devil!

Here’s a health to them that’s awa,
Here’s a health to them that’s awa;
Here’s a health to Tammie, the Norlan’ laddie,
That lives at the lug o’ the law!
Here’s freedom to them that wad read,
Here’s freedom to them that wad write!
There’s nane ever fear’d that the truth should be heard,
But they whom the truth would indite.

Here’s a health to them that’s awa,
Here’s a health to them that’s awa;
Here’s chieftain M’Leod, a chieftain worth gowd,
Tho’ bred amang mountains o’ snaw;
Here’s friends on baith sides o’ the Forth,
And friends on baith sides o’ the Tweed;
And wha wad betray old Albion’s right,
May they never eat of her bread!


 


Comments

Pete said…
The Scottish Hachiko
Pete said…
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hachik%C5%8D

Jeff said…
Greyfriars Bobby, mentioned in a later post, is the more comparable Scottish dog to Hachiko. Also a true story, while the Black dog is probably not.

Popular posts from this blog

Racial Injustice: The Case of Walter Lett Inspired Harper Lee

Chronology: The case of Walter Lett influenced Harper Lee in writing To Kill a Mockingbird. Here are the events of the case, and its connection to Harper Lee. The case began in November 1933.  "On Thursday, November 9, 1933, the Monroeville Journal reported that Noami Lowery told authorities that Walter Lett had raped her the previous Thursday.” ( "Lee, Harper: 1926 - 2016").  Just as in To Kill a Mockingbird , the accusation alone was enough for most citizens to assume guilt.  Writing for Time magazine, Daniel Levy asserts,   “Such an accusation was a death sentence for an African American man. ‘Rape was the central drama of the white psyche,’ says Diane McWhorter, author of the Pulitzer Prize-winning Carry Me Home: Birmingham, Alabama: The Climactic Battle of the Civil Rights Revolution.”   Lett was captured on Saturday and jailed in another town out of fear he’d be lynched. The legal system operated quickly. “On March 16, 1934, Lett was arraigned on a gran

Walking the John Muir Way: Getting There

 At the bus station in Portland and the airport in Boston people, 2 men, commented positively on my shirt. At 5:00, 3 state police & 2 immigration police were at the gate. 2 state cops went away with a guy, but others went on the plane.  We boarded soon after for our 5:45 departure. Gate agents seem unperturbed.  The police disappeared & the guy returned.  Travel was uneventful. The Dublin to Edinburgh flight was just long enough for a quick drinks service. Then a tram and a train    and a cab, and we left our bags with the desk agent at The Coachman Inn before checkOUT time to walk around town.     People have been super nice to us, from George the taxi driver to a kid at the train station, the conductor who backtracked to be sure we knew to transfer at Linlithgow, to the librarian, shop workers, and folks in the park (one recommended The Scarecrow Pub). Today is the kickoff of a town festival, they have a kind of fair going on in the park, and a parade went past the Inn ju

Linlithgow Marches

The story of the loyal dog and the pub is even bigger than we knew. The people of Linlithgow identify themselves by that name.  The pub name change was so controversial it went all the way to Parliament for decision, everyone in town still calls it by the old name, and people are campaigning to change it back   We were thrilled by the serendipity of being there for the Marches and expected the first to pass our front door at 7 AM.  No.   On around 8:30 we headed toward the town center and found Stewards.  Gary Watson, “not the mayor, a go for,” explained they weren’t due to start for hours. We couldn’t wait; this may be our longest walking day, so we sadly headed for Bo’ness.  We circled around the loch and headed uphill on farm lanes.   “In every walk in nature one receives far more than he seeks.”  This is coal country, and before we reached the town center, we came upon the cottage where James Watt lived when he created possibly the most important invention in the history of technol