The story of the loyal dog and the pub is even bigger than we knew. The people of Linlithgow identify themselves by that name.
The pub name change was so controversial it went all the way to Parliament for decision, everyone in town still calls it by the old name, and people are campaigning to change it back
We were thrilled by the serendipity of being there for the Marches and expected the first to pass our front door at 7 AM. No.
On around 8:30 we headed toward the town center and found Stewards. Gary Watson, “not the mayor, a go for,” explained they weren’t due to start for hours.
We couldn’t wait; this may be our longest walking day, so we sadly headed for Bo’ness. We circled around the loch and headed uphill on farm lanes.
“In every walk in nature one receives far more than he seeks.”
This is coal country, and before we reached the town center, we came upon the cottage where James Watt lived when he created possibly the most important invention in the history of technology, the steam engine. Outside the cottage stood a cylinder he designed. The purpose of the engine was to pump water out of a coal mine
The cottage is on the grounds of Kinneil House.
We are now south of the Antonine Wall, heading away from it henceforth.
Bo’ness is all about mining and steam trains.
We bought food in a Tesco and ate lunch at a dock of the Upper Forth Yacht Club. We’re on the Firth of Forth…henceforth.
This is Blackness Castle, with the bridges of South Queensferry in the background. At Blackness we looked for a pub and found the Lobster Pot. Imagine flying thousands of miles from Maine, then walking 40, to go to a lobster place.
Looks like Robert Burns did something naughty around here.
The Silver Tassie
Go bring to me a pint o wine,
And fill it in a silver tassie;
That I may drink, before I go,
A service to my bonie lassie:
The boat rocks at the pier o Leith,
Fu loud the wind blaws frae the Ferry,
The ship rides by the Berwick-law,
And I maun leave my bony Mary.
The trumpets sound, the banners fly,
The glittering spears are rankèd ready,
The shouts o war are heard afar,
The battle closes deep and bloody.
It’s not the roar o sea or shore,
Wad make me langer wish to tarry;
Nor shouts o war that’s heard afar –
It’s leaving thee, my bony Mary!
We were leaving, but the Marches arrived. Serendipity is with us this trip.
They laid wreaths in solemn ceremony.
After the piper played, everyone moved on.
Blackness Castle
On we plodded. We caught glimpses of Hopetoun House as we spent a mile + walking through the grounds.
Below are views from our third floor window at the Stagshead.
In the pub I chose a terrific Scottish Ale on cask.
to the Ferry Tap for an IPA, and a recommendation to dine at Thirty Knots (beautiful & tasty), and back to see Michael at the Tap for a good lad nightcap.
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